Moving Into a New Home? Document Everything First

The complete checklist for your first 30 days — what to photograph, record, and organize before you unpack a single box.

Why the First 30 Days Matter

The first month in your new home is a window you'll never get back. Everything is clean, empty, and visible. You can see every wall, every floor, every fixture without furniture blocking the view. Once you move in, it becomes exponentially harder to document your home's baseline condition.

This matters for three critical reasons:

Baseline documentation

If something goes wrong later — a crack appears in the foundation, a water stain shows up on the ceiling — you need proof of what the home looked like when you took possession. Timestamped photos from day one are your best evidence.

Builder warranty window

If you bought new construction, most builders offer a 1-year workmanship warranty, a 2-year systems warranty, and a 10-year structural warranty. The clock starts at closing. You need to find and document defects before those windows close.

Insurance valuation

Your home inventory for insurance should start the day you move in. Every appliance, every fixture, every upgrade — documented with photos, model numbers, and purchase prices while everything is fresh and accessible.

Think of it this way: future you will either thank present you for being organized, or curse present you for procrastinating. Let's make sure it's the first one.

Before Moving Day: The Empty House Walkthrough

Ideally, do this after closing but before the movers arrive. Walk through every room with your phone and document the following:

  • Photograph every room from multiple angles — corners, ceilings, floors. Shoot video walkthroughs too. These timestamped files prove the home's condition at move-in.
  • Document existing damage — scratches in hardwood, chips in countertops, nail holes in walls, cracked grout, stained carpet. Take close-up photos with a reference object for scale.
  • Read all meter readings — electric, gas, and water meters. Photo each one. This protects you from being billed for the previous owner's usage.
  • Test all systems — run every faucet, flush every toilet, turn on every burner, test every outlet, open and close every window and door. Note anything that doesn't work.
  • Check the exterior — walk the perimeter and photograph the roof (from ground level), siding, foundation, grading, gutters, and drainage.
  • Photograph the garage and attic — these are often overlooked. Check for water stains, pest evidence, insulation condition, and structural concerns.

This might take 1–2 hours, but it's the most valuable time you'll spend as a new homeowner. If you later discover a pre-existing problem, you'll have proof it was there before you moved in.

Week 1: Document the Big Stuff

Once you're in, start with the most expensive and most important items. These are the things that will matter most for insurance claims, warranty service, and maintenance scheduling.

For each item below, record the brand, model number, serial number, purchase date (or age estimate), and warranty status. Take a photo of the item and its data plate.

  • HVAC system — furnace, air conditioner, heat pump. Note the age, last service date (ask the seller), and filter size. The data plate is usually on the side panel.
  • Water heater — tank or tankless, capacity, age. The serial number often encodes the manufacture date. Average lifespan is 8–12 years for tank units.
  • Kitchen appliances — refrigerator, dishwasher, oven/range, microwave, garbage disposal. If they were included in the sale, the seller's disclosure should list their ages.
  • Washer and dryer — if included. Check if the dryer vent has been cleaned recently.
  • Electrical panel — photograph the panel door open, showing all breaker labels. Note the total amperage (usually 100 or 200 amps).
  • Roof — note the material (asphalt shingle, metal, tile), age, and any warranty documentation from the seller. Ask your inspector or the disclosure for the installation date.
  • Garage door opener — brand, model, and remote programming instructions. You'll thank yourself later.

Pro tip: most appliance data plates are on the inside of the door, on the back panel, or inside a service compartment. A flashlight and your phone camera are all you need.

Week 2: Systems and Utilities

Now that the big items are documented, it's time to learn how your home actually works. This is the knowledge that will save you in an emergency — and prevent emergencies in the first place.

Locate the water main shutoff

Usually near where the water line enters the home — basement, crawl space, or utility closet. In warmer climates, it may be outside near the street. Label it clearly and make sure every adult in the household knows where it is. A burst pipe can cause $10,000+ in damage in minutes.

Locate the gas shutoff

If you have natural gas, find the main shutoff valve (usually at the meter) and individual shutoffs for the furnace, water heater, stove, and dryer. Keep an adjustable wrench nearby if you have a street-side valve.

Label the electrical panel

If the breakers aren't already labeled (or labeled incorrectly — very common), take the time to map every circuit. Turn off one breaker at a time and check which outlets and lights go dead. Update the panel directory.

Test smoke and CO detectors

Press the test button on every unit. Replace batteries immediately, even if they seem fine — you don't know when they were last changed. Check the manufacture date on the back; smoke detectors should be replaced every 10 years, CO detectors every 5–7 years.

Check water pressure

A $10 pressure gauge from the hardware store screws onto any hose bib. Normal range is 40–60 PSI. Over 80 PSI can damage fixtures and pipes. If it's too high, you may need a pressure reducing valve.

Locate the cleanout and sewer access

If you ever have a sewer backup, the plumber will need access to the cleanout. Find it now. It's usually a white PVC cap in the yard or basement floor.

Document all of this with photos and notes. Store the locations in your home management app so anyone in the household can find them quickly.

Week 3: Start Your Home Inventory

By now, you're mostly unpacked and things are finding their places. This is the perfect time to start your home inventory for insurance. You'll know exactly where everything is because you just put it there.

Take the room-by-room approach

Don't try to inventory everything in one day. Pick one room per sitting. Kitchen first — it usually has the most valuable items and the most receipts to file.

Start with highest-value items

Electronics, furniture, jewelry, art, musical instruments, sporting equipment. These are the items where documentation makes the biggest difference in an insurance claim.

Photograph receipts for new purchases

You're going to buy a lot of things in the first month — hardware, furniture, appliances, curtains, tools. Snap every receipt before it fades. Most thermal receipts become unreadable within 1–2 years.

Don't forget the garage and outdoor items

Lawn mower, power tools, grill, patio furniture, bicycles, holiday decorations. These add up fast and are frequently stolen or damaged in storms.

The average American home contains over $100,000 worth of personal property. You don't need to document every fork and pillowcase, but you should have records for anything you'd be upset to lose without compensation.

Week 4: Set Up Maintenance

Now that you know what you have, set yourself up for keeping it in good shape. Deferred maintenance is the most expensive mistake homeowners make — a $200 HVAC tune-up prevents a $5,000 compressor replacement.

  • Register all appliances for warranty coverage — most manufacturers require online registration within 30–90 days of purchase. Without registration, you may lose warranty coverage entirely.
  • Schedule your first HVAC service — have a licensed technician inspect both heating and cooling systems. This establishes a service relationship and catches issues before they become failures.
  • Set up a maintenance calendar — HVAC filter changes (every 1–3 months), water heater flush (annually), gutter cleaning (twice a year), dryer vent cleaning (annually), smoke detector battery replacement (twice a year).
  • Change the locks or rekey — you don't know how many copies of the old keys are floating around. A locksmith can rekey all exterior locks to a single new key for $100–$200.
  • Update your HVAC filter and set a reminder — a dirty filter makes your system work harder, increases energy costs, and shortens its lifespan. Write the size on the furnace with a marker so you always buy the right one.
  • Test your sump pump — if you have one, pour a bucket of water into the pit and confirm the pump activates and drains properly.

Builder Warranty: What to Check in Year One

If you bought new construction, your builder typically provides a tiered warranty. The first year covers the most, so you need to be thorough about finding defects early. Here are the most common new construction issues to watch for:

Drywall cracks

Settling cracks at door frames, window corners, and ceiling joints are normal in the first year. Document them with photos and submit for repair before the 1-year warranty expires.

Grading and drainage

Water should flow away from the foundation on all sides. After the first heavy rain, check for pooling against the house. This is a major warranty item.

Window and door seals

Check for drafts, condensation between panes (seal failure), and proper weatherstripping. Run a hand around the frame on a windy day.

Plumbing leaks

Check under every sink and around every toilet monthly. Look in the attic and crawl space for water stains. Even small leaks cause major damage over time.

HVAC performance

Note rooms that don't heat or cool evenly. The builder should balance the ductwork so temperature is consistent throughout the home.

Caulking and trim

Exterior caulking around windows, doors, and penetrations should be intact. Interior trim gaps at joints are common settling issues the builder should address.

Set a calendar reminder for 11 months after closing — that's your deadline to submit a comprehensive warranty punch list. Walk through the entire home one more time and document everything.

Documents to Keep Forever

These documents should be digitized and stored securely. You'll need them for taxes, insurance claims, refinancing, and eventually selling the home.

  • Closing documents — the settlement statement (HUD-1 or Closing Disclosure), deed, and mortgage note. You'll need the purchase price for capital gains calculations when you sell.
  • Property survey — shows your exact lot boundaries, easements, and setbacks. Essential for fence disputes, additions, or drainage issues.
  • Title insurance policy — protects you against claims on the property. Keep it for as long as you own the home.
  • Home inspection report — your pre-purchase inspection is a detailed snapshot of the home's condition at the time of sale. Invaluable for comparison later.
  • HOA documents — CC&Rs, bylaws, architectural guidelines, and fee schedules. Know the rules before you paint your front door or build a shed.
  • Permits and certificates of occupancy — for the original build and any subsequent renovations. Unpermitted work can cause major problems when selling.
  • Insurance policy — your declarations page, which summarizes coverage, limits, and deductibles. Review it annually.
  • Receipts for major improvements — new roof, HVAC replacement, kitchen renovation, bathroom remodel. These add to your cost basis and reduce capital gains taxes when you sell.

Keen Owner Makes This Easy

Add your home, snap your receipts, document your appliances, and set up maintenance reminders — all in one place. Start your new home the right way.

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